Hello dear visitors of our site.
We welcome you to the autumn garden. Now the weather is wonderful, Indian summer, and we want to show you how to plant bulbous crops, in particular tulips.
Now there is a large selection of them at exhibitions and in stores, and flower growers often ask which ones to buy. As a matter of fact, you can buy any kind of tulips, any varieties. The only thing is that you need to inspect the appearance of the bulbs so that they are dense, so that they are without mechanical damage, with smooth, beautiful covering scales and so that there are no weeping soft spots on the bulbs themselves (especially on the bottoms).
Here we have the bulbs left over from last year, i.e. this is this year's harvest. We dug them up, dried them and now they are ready for planting. Tulips (any) are characterized by the fact that they love loose sandy soil, and you need to try to provide them with such conditions in the garden. If you have loamy soil, clayey heavy, then be sure to add a lot of sand for planting tulips and carefully dig up the soil. We have sandy loam soil, so we don't add sand. I want to plant tulips in a trench, next to them. I have tulips of the same color - yellow. When they all look like a group, it will be very beautiful. And in the foreground, other crops will grow, in particular, I want to plant crocuses and primroses here, and there will be a good spring flower bed.
What else would you like to say about tulips, which varieties to choose? For beginners, I would advise buying tulips from the Darwin hybrids series - they are the most unpretentious and it is best to start with them. They hibernate very well, bloom well together, have a tall glass of the very color and they are quite unpretentious. All artsy tulips: parrot, double, green-flowered tulips - they require skills in planting, skills in care, in order to dig them up in time, on time and dry them thoroughly, only then you can achieve good flowering from them. And Darwin's hybrids are rather unpretentious.
So, let's start landing. How to plant?
I have tulips of different sizes: there are large ones, there are small ones. Large onions of the first parsing - they need to be planted deeper. Small ones, of course, are smaller, not to such a great depth. The rule for all bulbs is the same - you need to plant the bulbs at three heights, i.e. from the bottom to the surface of the soil, three onions should be removed (on top of each other) - this is the principle. Naturally, if you take a small onion, and then put them on top of each other, naturally you will get that the planting depth is shallower.
So, let's start landing. I roughly dug a trench, here is the soil level, and there will be approximately three heights of the bulb. I plant by pressing my bulbs slightly into the ground. Look more carefully, if you already have long roots on the bottom, then you cannot press this onion in any case. On the contrary, you must loosen the soil at the bottom so that there is a loose soil, and carefully put this onion, without pressing it, because if your root buds (roots) break off, then new roots may no longer appear on the bulb, and it will naturally grow poorly with you. Here, at a distance of 10 cm, I plant large bulbs. Can be staggered in the second row. I deliberately made the trench wider, so that in the spring we had a beautiful tulip meadow here. Place the largest bulbs in a checkerboard pattern. Further: smaller onions can be planted in the same trench, but slightly higher (on the slope). And when I fall asleep, they will remain a little to the side from the main landings, in height where needed. I have been planting this way for more than a year, everything turns out well. Then big ones grow out of my small onions, and they bloom next year. These little onions, you must understand that they will not bloom next year. Only large onions will bloom. Therefore, if you are offered such bulbs on the market - on the market, because in the store you buy only large ones - and they say that they will bloom with you, then this is not true. They will bloom with you only next year.
There are still a few large bulbs left, these are only yellow tulips, I still have a lot of other colors, we will plant in another place. But we will plant the yellow ones side by side, so that it is a single, such a bright flower bed. And primroses will naturally be lilac, pink - it should turn out beautifully. Another reason why it is better to plant bulbs of the same variety together, because they bloom at the same time. If you plant bulbs of different varieties, then the flowering will be out of order, and then a large beautiful meadow will not work.
So we prepared approximately the landing site. What do we do next? Next: we have humus here, we prepared it in a bucket, and we fill our bulbs with humus so that they have good nutritious soil. We fall asleep so that everyone gets good nutritious soil. So we provided our trench with food.
Okay, now let's see what else I have prepared. Our tulips are very fond of mice, and in order to scare them away, it is advised to plant hazel grouses. Here we have a hazel grouse - this is an imperial hazel grouse - and it scares away mice with its smell. If you smell it, then it has such a characteristic incomprehensible smell: both nutty and garlic. And mice do not like this smell. We already have a bulb with roots that have appeared during storage. Where are we going to place it between these tulip bulbs. You need to plant hazel grouse a little deeper than tulips. The more you plant these hazel grouses, the better. And mice, maybe, won't go here. But this is not a very serious defense, so we will resort to one more method.
So I cooked prickly branches - this is a gooseberry. You can use rose hips, it is even better, it has much more thorns. This is very convenient to do, because the gooseberries still need to be cut off in the fall, and there are such branches in the forehead garden. And we lay these branches here, we just cut them at random and lay them here in this trench. Mice, if they dig their moves here, will prick on these branches, and they simply will not go here, they will not like it here. I have tested this method several times, it works. I will not say that absolutely all the bulbs remain intact, from the edges of them, perhaps, somewhere our mice will hook, they love tulips very much. But still, when I began to use this method, my tulip attacks due to the fault of mice became much less than it was before when I did not plant these branches.
Even now, stores sell special containers, mesh, plastic for planting bulbs. You can plant the most expensive and beautiful varieties in these containers. But you see how many bulbs I have, and this is far, far from all. I still have practically a bucket of these bulbs, and it is clear that I will not be able to plant them all in containers. Therefore, I definitely lay out such a primitive protection against mice. You can also place poisoned baits here. They can be put in a ring from a plastic bottle. Why is it so? Because from precipitation, all these grains or pellets of the bait will get wet and lose their toxic properties. And if we bury them in a plastic bottle (cut from both edges), then they will still be protected from moisture somehow, but protected.
This is how we prepared a planting site for tulips. Now we cover all this with the earth that we took out of this trench. On this our landing is over.
Further. Should tulips be watered? It all depends on the weather. If the weather is humid, if the soil is well saturated with moisture, then you do not need to water. And if the weather is dry, a real Indian summer, when it is warm and dry, then, of course, you need to water it. So we fell asleep half asleep with you, and you need to water at this stage. The earth is wet, the earth is wet, the water is gone, and we again fall asleep with dry earth. We've had a lot of rains now, so I think there is no need to water, the roots will grow remarkably well with us.
This is how we quickly and easily planted our tulips, and they will grow well with us, which is what we wish you!
Due to their unpretentiousness and variety of colors, sizes and shapes, tulips have earned immense popularity among flower growers.
In our latitudes, the main spring flowers usually bloom for the May holidays, flashing with bright lights against the background of black earth and just emerging greenery.
But what if for some reason it didn't work out to plant tulips in autumn? Planting tulips in the ground in spring has its own characteristics, and we will try to describe them in detail.
Planting a bulbous crop before winter at the optimal time significantly increases the chances of success. If you plant it too late, then it will not have time to take root and will freeze out in winter. And if you do this too early, then because of the warm favorable conditions, it can germinate, which during the first frost will cause the bulb to freeze.
Landing required 3-4 weeks before the first frostto allow the bulbs to take root. Wherein the soil should have a temperature of about 7-10 degrees Celsius at a depth of 10-15 cm... It can be planted approximately in early September and until the first half of October.
It is impossible to name the exact universal time of the procedure, which is applicable for the whole of Russia. Indeed, due to different weather and temperature conditions The timing of planting tulips in autumn in open ground in different regions is different:
To determine the most accurate time for the procedure, many summer residents resort to studying the lunar calendar. Of course, the effectiveness of following the cycles of the moon in gardening has not been scientifically proven, but many flower growers and summer residents note that it works.
Thus, the optimal timing of planting bulbs for Lunar calendar 2020:
Storing bulbs in a wooden box
Having dug the tubers out of the ground, they need to be dried within 5-7 days. To do this, put them in a ventilated container (basket or box) and put them in a dry and warm place.
IMPORTANT! Do not allow direct sunlight to fall on the bulbs. Therefore, dry the tubers under a canopy.
When the tubers are completely dry, they must be cleaned of roots and scales. You also need to cut away rot and other damage. The place of the cut is necessarily lubricated with potassium permanganate.
Then the dug out and dried tulips must be treated with a fungicide to prevent possible diseases. Experienced florists advise using Fundazol.
The bulbs are now ready for storage. There are 4 main rules for storing tulip rhizomes:
Along with the lack of light, it is good ventilation of the premises that is the main condition for storing tulips. With unstable temperatures or high humidity, tubers can survive with proper care. If exposed to sunlight and there is no free access to air, the planting material will become unusable.
IMPORTANT! You need to store tubers in a wooden or plastic ventilated container. Bulbs should not be stored in plastic bags or buckets. If there are mice in the room, then it is better to put the tubers in nets and hang them from the ceiling.
Basic rules to plant and grow tulips:
Technique and features of the correct autumn planting of tulips:
When disembarking, you can use a special device, which facilitates the planting process, instead of digging the beds with a shovel. With it, it is easy to create landings of different configurations.
Recently, gardeners practice planting tulips in mesh baskets or in plastic vegetable boxes.
The advantages of this planting method are as follows:
You can plant tulips in mesh baskets or plastic vegetable crates
A little less attention is paid to the choice of tulip varieties than to the preparation of the soil and the choice of a place for planting. Almost all varieties overwinter well and produce strong shoots when properly planted. Bulbs of varieties are more adapted to the harsh conditions of the north:
These are mainly early flowering varieties. All of them are planted in the ground in the fall and have time to mature before the onset of cold weather. Choose bulbs of medium and large diameter.
In winter, they cause great harm to trees and shrubs murine rodents... They gnaw at the roots and bark of plants, the roots of vegetable crops, strawberries, tulip bulbs, rhizomes of peonies and burgers. It is necessary to conduct against them binding of fruit trees.
If the soil in the garden is kept under turf, on thaw days it should be systematically trample snow around trees and in the near-stem circles to prevent rodent damage to the bark and cambium. If there are seedlings dug for spring planting in the garden, it is also necessary to regularly trample the snow in a circular groove in order to block the path of the mice to the seedlings. However, preventive measures can help prevent pests from entering the country only to a small extent.
Can help reduce pests domestic cat, which nature is destined to hunt for mice. A threatened garden or garden can be planted with protective plants that repel rodents with a strong odor. These include hazel grouse, spurge, black root, garlic, and black currant.
In a garden that is attacked by voles that regularly eat tulips and small bulbous plants, it is best to plant daffodils. Their bulbs contain an alkaloid, and voles do not touch them. However, for reliability and more effective action, it is better to combine other means along with planting such protective plants.
Empty plastic bottles with holes drilled into them are an effective method. They are obliquely buried in the ground. When the wind touches the holes, it produces a high-pitched whistling sound that is unpleasant for rodents. You can also drive away the animals by laying in burrows strong smelling substances... Thuja branches, walnut leaves, garlic cloves, fish heads, and elderberry leaf slurry have proven themselves well in this regard.
To protect against mouse-like rodents, tree trunks can be tied with soft sheet metal (preferably galvanized) 25-35 cm high with small holes.
In emergency cases, chemicals are used to control rodents in country gardens. Rodenticide allowed for retail sale to the public "Rat Death No. 1" as a 0.005% granular bait. Apply the tool as follows: lay the drug in holes or near them on the path of movement of animals, and if pests are present, repeat the procedure after 5-7 days.
In winter, gardeners can track rodents by following tracks in the snow, and then catch them using traps that can be purchased at any specialty store. When setting traps, it should be borne in mind that voles have very sensitive hearing and a good sense of smell. Therefore, in order not to scare away the animals, work with gardening gloves or rub your palms thoroughly with earth.