Sissoo Tree Information: Learn About Dalbergia Sissoo Trees


By: Jackie Carroll

Sissoo trees (Dalbergia sissoo) are attractive landscape trees with leaves that tremble in a breeze much like quaking aspens. The tree reaches heights of up to 60 feet (18 m.) with a spread of 40 feet (12 m.) or more, making them suitable for medium to large landscapes. Light green leaves and light-colored bark make sissoo trees stand out from other plants.

What are Sissoo Trees?

Also called rosewood trees, sissoos are grown in their native areas of India, Nepal and Pakistan as an important source of high-quality lumber that is used for making fine furniture and cabinetry. In India, it is second only to teak in economic importance. In the U.S. it is grown as a landscape tree. Sissoo trees are considered invasive in Florida and should be planted there with caution.

Sissoo Tree Information

Young and newly planted trees die when exposed to temperatures below 28 F. (-2 C.), and older trees can sustain serious damage at freezing temperatures. The trees are rated for USDA plant hardiness zones 10 and 11.

Sissoo trees bloom in spring with small clusters or flowers at the tips of the branches. These flowers would hardly be noticed if it weren’t for their powerful fragrance. Once the flowers fade, slender, flat, brown seed pods develop and remain on the tree throughout the summer and most of the fall. New trees grow quickly from the ripe seeds inside the pods.

How to Grow a Sissoo Tree

Sissoo trees need full sun or partial shade, and will grow well in almost any well-drained soil. They need deep irrigation on a regular basis in order to develop a dense canopy. Otherwise, Dalbergia sissoo trees produce sparse shade.

These trees develop iron chlorosis, or yellowing leaves, due to lack of iron uptake in alkaline soils. You can treat this condition with iron chelate and magnesium sulfate fertilizers. Citrus fertilizer is an excellent choice for routine fertilization.

Although sissoo tree care is easy, it has a couple of drawbacks that add to your routine landscape care. The tree develops thick surface roots that make mowing the lawn a challenge. These roots can lift pavements and foundations if planted too close.

Sissoo trees also produce a lot of litter. The branches and twigs are brittle and often break off, creating a mess to cleanup. You will also have to clean up falling seed pods in autumn.

This article was last updated on


6 Worst Trees to Plant in Phoenix

Phoenix is a lovely city, but as you probably know, it gets hot. In fact, high temps can average as much as 104 degrees in the summer months. Despite the heat and the dry climate, many plants and trees thrive here. But there are a few that don’t – or if they do, they still shouldn’t be a part of your Phoenix tree canopy. These worst trees include ones that people still plant even though they don’t grow well here, trees that grow too well (and are considered invasive), and ones that can wreak havoc on your allergies.

With the help of Michael Chamberland, assistant agent ANR/urban horticulture for the Maricopa County Cooperative Extension, we’ve compiled a list of the six worst trees to plant in Phoenix. So before you hit the local nursery, take a look at this list to make sure you know what trees to avoid.


Bought a new house and need decorating ideas for the space in the picture below

Odd Space - Picture Album Storage & Window Seat

Pictures for an asymmetrical space

Pictures of the entire space for " Needs an up-date living room "

Stephanotis_1

It depends on where you are. We are in Queen Creek, and all of our sissoos lost their leaves when it froze, and then came back when we were sure they were dead. Spacing also depends on how often and how aggressively you are willing to prune. Every time you make a cut on a branch, the tree sends out several more baby branches to replace the lost tip. Sissoo can get very tall and extremely wide, and they sucker also. I would suggest allowing at least 25' between trees, unless you are trying to create a screen effect. Davesgarden.com says 30-40' spacing, and they get over 40' tall.

Clysta

Sissoos are semi-evergreen, so they lose some of their leaves in the fall but look good unless we have a freeze like this year. All of the leaves froze and some of the small branches, but as mentioned earlier they will come back especially if they are not newly planted. The frost we had is unusual and I was told that the most damage was done in one night when the temperature dipped and stayed below zero for 4-5 hours.

TrooperRat

Sissoo trees are semi-deciduous. Meaning, of course, they lose some of their leaves but near all of them. Excepting last year's frost (2011? or last 2010? don't remember). I have somewhere around 25 of them I planted on my property after scoring them from a nursery that was going out of business. During the extreme frost that saw a lot of lost vegetation all over the valley, my sissoos dropped all of their leaves and they looked positively dead. They were just dead looking sticks.

Neighborhood was abuzz with the fact that I would have to cut them all down. I didn't bite. Pre-Spring and I began watering them - a lot. Suddenly, all new branches started coming out on all of them. I cut off the dead branches and now? Like it never happened.

By chance, I was at a tree farm a few days ago. Not buying trees, making a delivery (local truck driver). There were a large number of 25 to 30 foot tall pine trees in boxes and I started a conversation with this guy that is running this place, responsible for it's day to day operations. Those trees at one point were hauling in $3,500, now he says they might fetch $1,000 to $1,200.

Oh, I reply and get onto the subject of Sissoo trees. He's all over the subject of Sissoo trees. A magnificent tree, he declares. I asked about the fact that they are planted all over the place but none of them I have seen are very large. No, he replies, because Sissoo trees are a newer variant brought to the Phoenix area. Give it 10 years from now and you are going to see giant Sissoo trees all over the place. I see municipalities have them planted in medians and really in various public places.

I was intrigued. I bought sissoos because the nursery I got them from - cheap I should add - declared that they grow quickly. Water them well, they grow well. Well, my 2 foot tall trees I planted a couple of years ago are as high as 18 feet tall now. Some haven't grown that fast, but point made.

Here's the part that really got my attention. I told him I saw that they can grow as high as 40 feet, maybe even a tad taller. Yes, he replies, they can grow that small, but you can expect some of them to grow as high as 90 feet. NINETY feet? Yes, he replies, they don't all grow that much but certainly you will see some that tall eventually.

Sold and very glad I went to the trouble I did to get them all planted. I have about 25 of them planted all over my property. I had barren, treeless properties. A house without a tree is a building without windows. They are extremely frost resistant, as I found out from my own experience. During that same frost, my Ficus were damaged quite a bit. I had to cut back a lot of branches and hope for the best. I used Miracle Grow on both the Ficus and the Sissoos. The Ficus have made a comeback, yes, but nothing like they were before the frost. The Sissoos grew out new branches in a big hurry and they have no appearance of any damage.

The nursery guy said that these trees are still quite popular in these parts and will be - until some developer or someone decides something new should be brought in and they will go somewhere - else - in this world and bring in a tree that has never been seen here before.


There is more than one way to measure the correct amount of water to supply. Some people prefer to measure in terms of the number of gallons of water required, but there is another method, described here, that will also illustrate exactly where to water your trees.

Apply Water to the "Dripline"

You should be watering your trees around what arborists call the dripline. To find the dripline, stand under your tree and look up into its canopy. Move so as to position yourself directly under the outer edges of that canopy. You are now standing on a portion of the circle that makes up the dripline.

Most of the water your tree's roots are going to draw out of the ground will be drawn from this area and from the area just outside it further away from the tree. In other words, people who water a tree right up near its trunk are acting on a fundamental misunderstanding of how tree roots take up water. The smaller, "feeder" roots are the ones that will draw up most of the water from the soil, and these feeder roots tend to emanate out from the dripline.

Create Moist Soil

The all-important feeder roots reside mainly in the uppermost one foot of the soil. So your goal in watering a tree is to moisten this top foot of soil in the dripline area. You want to water enough that the soil ends up moist, not soggy so as not to over-water the tree. This guideline is more useful than speaking in terms of gallons because the number of gallons required will depend on factors such as how well your soil retains water.

You can use products specifically designed to test your soil for moistness. For example, a soil probe is a metal rod to test how deeply your water has seeped into the soil. After watering your tree, push the rod down into the soil as far as you can.

Wet soil is easier to penetrate than dry soil, so the rod should slip pretty easily down through whatever soil has been watered sufficiently. If you can push the rod down a foot deep but then meet resistance (signifying dry soil), you have probably achieved your goal of watering the tree to the correct depth. Water that percolates down lower than that will go unused and is therefore wasted.


Varieties of Male Ginkgo Biloba Trees

  • 'Autumn Gold' (zones 3 to 8) is a popular male cultivar. It grows to 40 to 50 feet tall, with a spread of 25 to 30 feet and has a broadly spreading canopy.
  • 'Saratoga' (zones 4 to 8) has a similar size and shape to 'Autumn Gold'. What makes this cultivar different is the V-shape of its leaves, which strays from the usual fan shape.
  • ‘Fastigiata' (zones 3 to 8) is another popular male cultivar and is a good choice if you want a tree that is narrow (column-shaped). It becomes 30 to 50 feet tall but just 10 to 15 feet wide.
  • 'Princeton Sentry' (zones 3 to 8) is also columnar but matures somewhat larger, at 40 to 50 feet tall and 20 to 30 feet wide.
  • 'Fairmont' (zones 5 to 8) is a tall, skinny tree, reaching at least 50 feet in height but just 15 to 18 feet across.
  • 'Pendula' (zones to 8) is a good choice for a small space. It's a slow-growing male cultivar that has a stocky build and reaches just 8 feet tall at maturity, with a maximum spread of 10 feet. While the cultivar name 'Pendula' usually suggests a weeping form, in this case, the tree is more umbrella-shaped.


Dalbergia Species, Indian Rosewood

Category:

Water Requirements:

Average Water Needs Water regularly do not overwater

Sun Exposure:

Foliage:

Foliage Color:

Height:

Spacing:

Hardiness:

USDA Zone 8a: to -12.2 °C (10 °F)

USDA Zone 8b: to -9.4 °C (15 °F)

USDA Zone 9a: to -6.6 °C (20 °F)

USDA Zone 9b: to -3.8 °C (25 °F)

Where to Grow:

Grow outdoors year-round in hardiness zone

Danger:

Bloom Color:

Bloom Characteristics:

Bloom Size:

Bloom Time:

Other details:

May be a noxious weed or invasive

Soil pH requirements:

Patent Information:

Propagation Methods:

From seed direct sow outdoors in fall

Seed Collecting:

Collect seedhead/pod when flowers fade allow to dry

Regional

This plant is said to grow outdoors in the following regions:

Hawaiian Paradise Park, Hawaii

Orchidlands Estates, Hawaii

Gardeners' Notes:

The earlier comments reflect my experience.
I also had many large birds roosting in the tree through the summer.
I had the sissoo removed, and dug out the stump, and dug out a half-dozen roots the size of my arm, some 25-30' long.
For six months I killed roots and new shoots.
Here's how:
Drill 1" diameter holes every 3 feet halfway through the roots.
Pour Roundup concentrate (undiluted) into the holes.
Every week, drench the new shoots with Roundup mixed for mature weeds.
I removed about 50 pavers, chopped out roots, and replaced the pavers.
Be patient.

On Aug 30, 2013, tgunsch from Yuma, AZ wrote:

When we built our house 10 years ago we asked our landscaper for a big leafy tree for the centerpiece of our large yard. We wanted a tree that would stay green all year and have minimum leaf dropage. He suggested a Sisso tree and after looking at one at the nursery we agreed. The tree grew fast and we immediatly realized that there was considerable leaf dropage although the tree did remain green all year. At first we were able to forgive the leaf mess since the tree was so beautiful. The tree grew unbelievably fast and after 8 years cleaning up after it became a nightmare. The final straw was when the concrete deck around the pool 30 feet away started heaving and we were told the giant root doing the damage was from the sisso. Although heartbreaking, we made the decision to have the m. read more ajestic tree removed. After having the tree professionally removed and the stump ground and roots removed (we thought) the real nightmare started. Weeks afterwards little Sissos started popping up all over the yard, some hundreds of feet from where the tree was! These saplings weren't from seeds but from little roots that had invaded every section of my huge yard even dry areas while the tree was still growing. It has now been eight months and still every day new little Sissos are popping up. The roots wont die! I have pulled them, poisoned them and now most recently have my entire yard potholed trying to pull up all of the roots. I looked over the wall into my neighbor's desert landscape this morning to see one invading his waterless garden over 150 feet from where the tree was. One interesting note is that most of the plants in my yard had been struggling for years, and since removing the Sisso they all seem to be flourishing. The Sisso had been stealing their water all this time unbeknownst to me. I hate this tree and I would never buy a house with one in it or even next door. EVIL, EVIL tree.

On Aug 12, 2013, ihatesissoo from Peoria, AZ wrote:

The 2 Sissoo trees we planted are very pretty BUT like everyone else has mentioned with a negative response they are a nightmare!! DO NOT PLANT unless you have an acre lot. Even beware with that. Had I known about the invasive root system and suckers we never would have planted them. So now 5 years after being planted, they are 20-25 feet tall, roots are all through our grass lawn, the roots are uplifting our pavers, and the suckers are everywhere. At first, we cut roots that were going through the grass and suckers came up everywhere along the root - like a forest - so we ripped up the roots through the grass. Several landscapers told us to remove them. So after paying for landscaping 5 years ago, we now have to pay more money to fix pavers, remove trees, and re-do the lawn. Onl. read more y to have to deal with the sucker issue even when they are gone. There goes our shade and money! Please people do not plant this tree. They are nice shade trees but not worth the added cost or headache.

On Jul 18, 2013, AKinChandler from Chandler, AZ wrote:

Like others, I wanted a relatively fast growing shade tree in AZ. I specifically asked for a tree without an invasive root system and one that would not make a mess. Our landscaper recommended the Sissoo. That landscaper better hope I never catch him in a dark alley. I hate this tree. The first one they planted actually died. I should have picked a different tree. Without knowing how bad the tree was I went with another Sissoo. The second one got big quick. In just a couple of years the trunk was 10 inches in diameter and the tree was 25-30 feet tall. Early on a couple of suckers would come up but they seemed easy to control. Then the suckers started popping up in the rock around the grass area where the tree was planted. It was removed a couple of years ago. Instead of stump . read more grinding I had the removal guys dig out the root ball and trace all the roots they could find. I am still fighting off suckers every week. Each week it seems like there are more of them. Even when I stopped watering the grass they still came up. The roots that didn't get pulled in the removal process are still growing and getting larger in diameter. I pulled out 10 feet of root the other day and there are still suckers coming up in that area. If I were considering buying the perfect house and this tree was in the yard, or even in a neighbor's yard, it would be reason enough not to buy the house. This tree is that bad.

On Jul 7, 2013, Dianne29 from Desoto Lakes, FL wrote:

A beautiful-looking tree but beneath it's magnificent exterior lies a menacing and invasive species that I would NEVER recommend, at least not in Florida! The root system is incredible, wrapping throughout my front yard, under my house and into the back yard. I really have no idea to what extent the damage may be under my slab and into my pipes. The tree is probably 25 years old (as I have been in the house for 19) and it drops all its leaves at least once a year. Heaven forbid it starts to leaf and a cold spell hits because hear we go again. It is both male and female, I fear, because it flowers and then it drop stamins or some such thing EVERYWHERE twice a year. I call it "the tree from hell." It sucks all the water out of all the plants around it and makes it nearly impossible t. read more o garden because everywhere you dig, there's a root the size of your thigh. I hate this tree. I had two but in 2001 one was knocked over by a tropical storm on September 14 and it took at least three years and a couple of extra stump grindings to get rid of it. Suckers still come up but I'm not sure from which tree. Brother! It's one of the trees where no permit is required to remove it. I guess the state just want them gone, as well.

On Jun 13, 2013, Tasha2013 from Chandler, AZ wrote:

i also am in the camp of hating this tree! Had one planted (at advice of nursery). Wanted low litter, desert adapted fast growing shade. Well I got that and so much more. After 10 yrs and 10K damage. roots grew into water main, under sidewalks, under driveway, had the 35 ft tree cut down and stump ground last fall. Now I have suckers coming up all over the place. Had the stump reground on Memorial day and it seems like that just stimulated more growth everywhere else! HELP!! How do I get rid of these roots? It is a grass yard so it does get water. Anyone who has started this process over the years please advise.
Frustrated in Chandler!

On Oct 28, 2012, nogottarancho from Maricopa, AZ wrote:

planted 5 and took 3 out and neglected other two

now suckering up thru my ash tree saucer and growing like a weed. almost 20 feet away.

the neglected two remained green and lush little bushes and could not figure it out as I did not water during summer.

woe is me, my septic is across the drive way. would not reco unless large lot and your only tree.

On Apr 30, 2012, BookLee from Phoenix, AZ wrote:

Help. Just Purchased An Indian Rosewood Tree. I was going to plant it by our pool and pool pump. After reading the negatives I wonder if this is wise? The tree is about 12 feet and has a narrow circumference. Will it be invasive to the electrical and pool plumbing?

On Jun 1, 2011, elissajk from Litchfield Park, AZ wrote:

We have 4 of these gorgeous trees in our backyard. My favorite things about them are how quickly they grow, and how the wind blows through the leaves. It sounds similar to a bunch of pine trees in the forrest, and I love so much to sit under the thick shade of one and listen to the sound. Now they absolutely do require pruning and staking, so they are not a no maintenance tree. After about the 4th-5th year, they do create a more than what I would call "low" litter, but definitely less than many other popular trees here in AZ, and definitely not high or even moderate litter. After last winter's big freeze, ours lost most of their leaves, but typically in this area, they keep them all year. Like all hearty big trees, you must not plant them very close to walls, concrete, patios, houses, and . read more other structures as a precaution. Trees this large do need a big root system. I also would advise to clean up after their seed pods to avoid saplings, as with all big trees.

On Sep 22, 2010, NUMBSKULL from Glendale, AZ wrote:

Be forewarned of what you're getting yourself into. They are so beautiful and fast growing when they are young, but when you reach the 6th & 7th year - you are in for a constant mess, especially in the winter. I was heartbroken to have to take them out. After removing 15 of these trees off my entire property in Feb 2010, I am still paying the price physically & financially in Sept 2010 of trying to rid all the new saplings that are popping up everywhere. While the trunks are dead, the roots are not. It won't stop, no matter what we do. We've pulled every imaginable root and have to rip up our lawn again. We have poisoned these things to death at the trunk numerous numerous times, and have sprayed, pulled, cussed at every new tree root popping out of the ground. It has destroyed pav. read more ers, and after comparing notes with several several people, they have had water lines busted, concrete busted, lawns ruined, plants ruined. I was given wrong information from beginning to end from numerous sources. This is probably going to destroy many yards & marriages all over Arizona in the coming years.

On Nov 14, 2009, Fedup from Peoria, AZ wrote:

I have 2 seven year old Sissoo's in my backyard that I must sadly remove. These are beautiful trees which I decided to purchase after doing extensive research. I asked the largest tree nursery in AZ (they planted the trees) for advice and they didn't tell me that these trees will take over everything in its path. They never said that they would be a problem where they were planted. These trees are wolves in sheep's clothing.

The tree that's closest to the grass lawn is extremely invasive. I've removed roots and saplings from areas 35 ft away from the base of the tree. I've torn up my lawn several times removing the roots. It seems to suck whatever water is around because my lawn and plants in the tree's vicinity are all languishing.

The other tree is f. read more urther away from the lawn but has large roots that are on the surface of the soil and are in close proximity to my sidewalk, air conditioner and house foundation.

It's such a shame, because I've wasted money purchasing and having the wrong trees planted, 7 years of watering, killing my other plants in their general area, having to spend money trying to get rid of these trees and worst of all having to start over from scratch. The most important thing in AZ, when it comes to landscaping, is to plant trees on the south & west sides of your property to shade your house and yard from our harsh summer sun.

Unless you have a yard that is 80 ft. deep by 80 ft. wide, with nothing else in the area, then a Sissoo could work. But if not, then don't chance it. There's got to be other trees more desirable. If anyone has any honest advice on what shade trees would be recommended for a yard with a lawn, a pool and other landscape plants, please let me know. I'm desperate for some good advice.

On Oct 31, 2009, sckufusrnms from Peoria, AZ wrote:

After having searched the Web high and low for the cons and/or disadvantages of Dalbergia sissoo trees, I must say I'm flabbergasted that the majority of information I have found is nothing but positive. Why? Because my experience with this tree has been an absolute nightmare, and I would never recommend it to anyone.

I had never heard of the sissoo tree until I purchased a 10-year-old home with a tall, obviously established one in its back yard. On the walk-through, about 24 feet away from the gargantuan beast, I noticed what appeared to be a small plant or weed in a corner of the yard, and asked about it. "That's just a sapling from the tree," I was told by a Realtor. "Don't worry about it."

A few weeks later, after moving into the home, the sapling had gr. read more own to more than four feet tall. I wondered how, in a Phoenix-metro suburb in late May, anything could grow so fast without water (the sprinkler system was broken) or special treatment. I also wondered how the tree had managed to produce the obviously "teenaged" one in the corner along with a "day-care class full" number of even younger siblings -- in the form of several saplings dotting the back yard and the front yard landscape as well -- without water or nourishment, and how these younger versions of the bohemoth "parent" not only managed to keep growing but also to multiply, reproducing a veritable litter of potential adult sissoos.

Presumably, people are posting that they fear killing these trees, but from what I have seen and experienced, nothing can kill the sissoo. By late July/early August, the "sapling" I was told not to "worry about" was at least six feet tall and filled with lush green leaves. Yet the sprinkler system was still broken. I noticed a long crack in the concrete of the back yard patio that appeared to have been caused by at least one root of the original monstrosity, evidenced by the way in which one part of a root abutted the patio's concrete edge while another part chose its own path underneath the patio toward the house.

Since moving in, I had been following the saplings on an almost daily basis in an attempt to keep them at bay. It wasn't until I began to notice cracks in the exterior of the home's foundation that it dawned on me that in a few instances each crack, like the one in the patio, was abutted by at least one large, long, thick root of the sissoo tree.

Why the tree encroached as it did, I don't know. What I did know was that, unlike the home's original and second owners, I would do whatever necessary to get rid of "the tree of one-hundred-thousand roots" and save the house.

I have had the same tree removal service here three times since September 2008, but the saplings reveal their faces again and again. I have spent a great number of hours digging, cutting, sawing, breaking, snapping, chipping, and pouring, and just when I think it's over, through the plastic (unless I have simply cut it away) just under the gravel used in the desert landscaping, I'll spy the faintest outline of part of a root, a root that turns out to be a foot in diameter and who-knows-what-length since the root has burrowed deep into the ground. The tree service, me and the chemicals have been battling the roots of this sissoo for so long unsuccessfully that I'm beginning to think this sissoo is unlike any other species about which I have read.

Most recently, I hired yet another tree removal company, one I worked with in the past at my former home that was easily able to, using a backhoe, remove plants with tremendously long roots, killing them. I'm fairly certain the plants were permanently removed because five years later, no sign of them. Yet this company, which didn't use a backhoe but a stump grinder, managed to, unlike the previous company (which continues to advertise that it not only does tree removal but also stump grinding) actually grind the original stump to a point at which it disappeared or at least must be extremely deep below the ground. The first company merely "sheered", very lightly, a small portion of the stump, leaving behind most of the fat, long octopus-type roots growing from around the stump as if it were the center of a carousel and the roots, some as long as 12 feet, the carousel animals. I was told the same thing by the tree company I used this time as the prior tree company told me: "The tree is dead now and gone. You won't see anymore roots."

Last night, however, my dog, never one to dig, had apparently decided "enough is enough" when it came to competing for my attention over the last eight months with this "tree from hell", and dug a perfect hole exactly where there were more roots, apparently long and thick and either burrowing deeply into the ground or growing under the wall between my house and one of the neighbors behind me. This morning, after I took photos (the dog is better at finding roots and getting rid of them than the men with the professional tree removal service companies?) of the hole and the dog by the hole, I looked more closely into the hole, seeing that there was some wetness by one of the roots.

So, although I had hoped and prayed I would never have to deal with this tree again (yet knowing it was one of my many crosses to bear), I began to dig. In spite of exhaustion, frustration and anger at this monstrosity defined as a "tree" that is more like an oat cell cancer, at the continued life-sucking and foundation hugging by each remaining root after God only knows how many months, hours, minutes and seconds I have spent digging, each day a little bit at a time, at the tree companies' failure to pay attention to me when I tell them about the tree's behavior, and, despite being paid $150 extra, at the employees' failure to perform even the slightest amount of physical work possible, such as digging (even when the temperatures are in the 60s and 70s).

So here I am, $650 in the hole with "roots" of this living oat cell cancer known as a Dalbergia sissoo still in my back yard and still refusing to die. I have cut off water to it but still am removing excessively long skinny wet roots along with huge tree-trunk-size roots.

While it seems that I will never be able to get rid of each root of the tree, at least I know that no tree company can do so either, so I won't waste any more money on these companies. However, I don't want to spend the rest of my life digging, so perhaps my best bet at this point is to contact my homeowner's insurance company and ask them for advice.

I know from searching online over the past several months that the tree should never have been planted by the former owners of this home. Just as a root from one of the three sissoos in my former neighbor's yard had pushed up the concrete wall between her home and the home on the other side of her so that she had to pay to replace the entire wall, gates, and so on (and yet two sissoos remain in that yard), roots in my yard could be anxious to get rid of the wall that divides me from the neighbors behind me.

While I found information on this tree online, until recently I found it to be unrealistic because it seemed to exclude the "negatives" of these trees.

The tree is described as having " . a long taproot and an extensive lateral root system, often at the soil surface and producing suckers (PIER, 2006)." Apparently, that sissoos are spreading throughout Arizona must be a secret, because according to the site, the tree is ". known to be invasive in Australia and in Florida (U.S.)"

Because of the tree's "aggressive root system", according to the Global Invasive Species Database website, it is ".. prone to suckering" and thus ". is commonly used for erosion control and soil stabilization along stream and river banks (ICRAF, undated)."

In my opinion, the damage, headaches, and cost of dealing with the cons of this tree far outweigh its pros, at least here in the desert, of being fast growing and providing a lot of shade. Surely there are other trees one can choose from, ones that did not make it to the Global Invasive Species Database.

On Jul 15, 2008, slatwood from Sun City, AZ (Zone 9b) wrote:

Some very good descriptions precede mine, including the morning fragrance of the inconspicuous white blossoms. But I'd like to add that I spent several years in the nursery trade - grown too fast (pushed with fertilizer, warmed in winter, etc.) the wood is brittle. Grown as a landscape tree, it is as sturdy as any Elm, perhaps more so. Has shown more wind and weight resistance than Ficus nitida. There are several around town that have never succumbed to high winds. In particular, there's one on the Glendale CC Campus, over 40 years old, huge -- never split nor broke and has been through 40 years of monsoons. Also, in our climate it is usually evergreen 2 years ago temps of 24 degrees two nights in a row, took about 1/2 the foliage. Fastest growing broad-leafed shade tree for the deser. read more t.

On Aug 25, 2005, MotherNature4 from Bartow, FL (Zone 9a) wrote:

This is a graceful tree, but as stated above, it is quite brittle. The hurricanes did remove a lot of them for us, but not enough. It is listed as a Category II Invasive Exotic in central and south Florida.

On Feb 3, 2005, arielsadmirer from Margate, FL (Zone 10a) wrote:

This tree makes a handsome specimen. It is easily grown, semi-evergeen and has delicate, oval-pointed leaves. Rosewood makes an excellent light, filtered shade. The leaves dance easily in any breeze. Flowers are very inconspicuous, but very fragrant and white. They are followed Slender, flat, brown seed pods.

Rosewood is a prized wood for cabinet makers. Many are grown for lumber or veneer. Though the wood of this tree is beautiful, it can be very brittle. If you live in an area prone to wind storms, proper early training and pruning, can help ensure wind resistance. This is one of the trees that didn't make it after our recent hurricanes.

Roots can be a nuisance if planted to close to hardscape. They can lift sidewalks and the like.


It's easy to care for your rubber tree.

The great news is that rubber trees don't need a lot of fussing over. Water your rubber tree when the soil is slightly dry to the touch. Watering too often may cause leaf yellowing. Dump out the saucer beneath the pot so there's no standing water. If you like, feed your rubber tree with a general-purpose fertilizer at 1/4 to 1/2 strength a few times a year, especially during active growth in spring and summer. Or not! It's really not necessary but certainly won't hurt.


Watch the video: लकड क पहचन कस कर Wood name and price How to identify wood


Previous Article

Gravel Bed Garden Design: Tips On Laying A Gravel Garden

Next Article

How to get rid of frigidity with herbs